--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Connie"
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
> trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or
the
> pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
> Rosie River Cat

HI RRC,
Some folks use an iron to transfer. I haven't tried this technique
as I'm allergic. I generally use the old tried and true soft lead
pencil, rub with a spoon technique. With really intricate images I
scrub the surface of the carving medium(I use PZ Kut)with a paper
towel that has been wetted with acetone. Then I place the image face
down and use the spoon technique. The image transfers and then I go
over it completely with a ball point so that won't rub off during
carving. I would imagine that this last technique would work with
pink stuff or mastercarve. The acetone changes the surface of PZ Kut
slightly and makes it gummier and more receptive for the image. I
would imagine that the type of printer you are using would make a
big difference in the method you use.

Don

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "gwendontoo" wrote:
>
> --- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Connie"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> > I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
> > trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or
> the
> > pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
> > Rosie River Cat
>
> HI RRC,
> Some folks use an iron to transfer. I haven't tried this technique
> as I'm allergic. I generally use the old tried and true soft lead
> pencil, rub with a spoon technique.

I have been using this method recently ... too impatient to fire up the iron. Works great
for quick carves. I draw/trace my original image on tracing paper ... no backwards
lettering this way.


With really intricate images I
> scrub the surface of the carving medium(I use PZ Kut)with a paper
> towel that has been wetted with acetone. Then I place the image face
> down and use the spoon technique. The image transfers and then I go
> over it completely with a ball point so that won't rub off during
> carving. I would imagine that this last technique would work with
> pink stuff or mastercarve. The acetone changes the surface of PZ Kut
> slightly and makes it gummier and more receptive for the image.

I will try this method ... just have take some TIME to buy that acetone!

I
> would imagine that the type of printer you are using would make a
> big difference in the method you use.
>
> Don

Don is correct! I was lucky enough on my very first try, my sig stamp! I used an iron with
a copy from a copier using toner, not a laser jet, or inkjet. I ironed the image on
mastercarve and the image was perfect (put a thin layer of cloth betweeen the iron and
paper). I haven't been as successful since then ... tried using the pink stuff and the grey
material and I melted some. I have to turn the iron down, I guess.

good luck,
speedsquare

I take any computer generated designs to a copy machine and then copy. I
trim the photocopy to the image size and then use a cotton ball soaked in
nail polish remover to pat the image against the carving media. I just peel
up the photocopy to check on how well it is transferring. If necessary, I
pat a little harder or make the cottontail a bit wetter with polish remover.
I didn't have any luck with an iron - maybe I didn't have it hot enough??

Wisconsin Hiker

-----Original Message-----
From: Connie [mailto:wants2create@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 7:15 PM
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [LbNA] Transferring designs to carving material



Hi,
I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or the
pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
Rosie River Cat





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I've used the heat transfer/iron method for a few years using images
printed on an HP LaserJet printer. This works on PZKut and less well
on Speedy Stamp. I do not know about other carving medium.Inkjet
printers will not work.I also do not know if other laser printers
will yield acceptable results. Some toner based copier images will
work.

In terms of the iron/heat transfer method, irons seem to have minds
of their own. Some of them have hot and cool spots, leak water, etc.
I use a Rowenta Pro iron on the hightest setting and a blast of
steam. I place the printed image (on regular old copy paper) on the
carving medium without cutting it out. I place another plain sheet on
top. Then I set the iron lightly and squarely on both sheets and give
it one blast of steam. This serves to keep the paper from sliding
around. The Rowenta iron has a fairly large volume of steam. Note
that if your iron has a tendency to drip water when you use the steam
setting, use a dry iron instead.

I then begin to press the cord end of the iron on both sheets for a
couple of seconds. The cord end has fewer steam vents and therefore,
less chance of voids in the transfer process.I remove the iron after
a very short time (2 seconds), very slightly lift a corner of the
paper the graphic is on to check transfer progress. Done perfectly,
the image should be very black. Allow the carving medium to cool
completely.

This is truly a trial and error process and usually requires a few 2-
3 second applications of the iron. It will work with or without
steam, though without, you will have to take care that the paper does
not slip.

Important to know is Speedy Stamp has a lower melt point than PZKut
so more care must be taken or the medium will melt into the ink on
your graphic or the surface will become glazed and hardened and
nearly impossible difficult to carve.

This method absolutely requires experimentation with your iron and
likely some wasted carving medium until you find the combination of
temp/steam/numbers of applications of the iron that works for you.
I've used this for well over one hundred stamps and it duplicates
permanently and without smearing on the medium all the detail from
laser printed graphics that you could ever want. If you have any
questions, please feel free to email me off list since I no longer
actively read this list.

Alafair


--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Connie"
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
> trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or
the
> pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
> Rosie River Cat

Hi,
I only have ink-jet printers . . . I wonder if there is a method to use those. (The nearest copy machine to me is about 25 minutes away, lol). I thought about printer on photo paper or acetate or something that won't soak up the ink as fast . . . but haven't tried it yet. I'm going to try your method using an inkjet print as see what happens.
Thanks for your advice.
Rosie River Cat

Debbie Kotlarek wrote:
I take any computer generated designs to a copy machine and then copy. I
trim the photocopy to the image size and then use a cotton ball soaked in
nail polish remover to pat the image against the carving media. I just peel
up the photocopy to check on how well it is transferring. If necessary, I
pat a little harder or make the cottontail a bit wetter with polish remover.
I didn't have any luck with an iron - maybe I didn't have it hot enough??

Wisconsin Hiker

-----Original Message-----
From: Connie [mailto:wants2create@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 7:15 PM
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [LbNA] Transferring designs to carving material



Hi,
I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or the
pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
Rosie River Cat





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 08:13 AM 2/23/2005, you wrote:

>I only have ink-jet printers . . . I wonder if there is a method to use those.

Before I bought my laser printer, I used to make transfers by pressing
carving material onto the paper as soon as it came out of my ink jet
printer (while the ink was still wet). It's worth a try with your printer.

TurtleMcQ

I do mine like this all the time...
1) get as much contrast in your image as possible - in black and white
2) print on an ink jet printer in "best" mode
3) cut to size immediately
4) place image print side down on carving medium
5) rub backside of paper vigorously with butter knife or other smooth edged tool

~ this works best for me, because the ink doesn't smear as I'm carving...I use this method almost exclusively.

Doglvrs
----- Original Message -----
From: Connie
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2005 8:14 PM
Subject: [LbNA] Transferring designs to carving material



Hi,
I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or the
pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
Rosie River Cat





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This one usually works for me on small images. I haven't had a lot of
success with Iron transfers, but Xylene on toner images is the best I
have found once you figure out the trick of it.

Eli

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, TurtleMcQ wrote:
> At 08:13 AM 2/23/2005, you wrote:
>
> >I only have ink-jet printers . . . I wonder if there is a method to
use those.
>
> Before I bought my laser printer, I used to make transfers by pressing
> carving material onto the paper as soon as it came out of my ink jet
> printer (while the ink was still wet). It's worth a try with your
printer.
>
> TurtleMcQ

And don't forget the archaic method of tracing the image on tracing
paper with a pencil and then rubbing it onto the stamp material with
any kind of blunt object. This is what I use, and although it
requires slightly more work (the tracing), it is pretty consistent. I
also recently discovered when I had to recarve a detailed stamp of
mine that had gone missing, that if you save the traced artwork you
can use it again.




--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Connie"
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
> trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or
the
> pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
> Rosie River Cat

That always works great for me. I started using the edge of a coin to rub with and it works wonderfully.
missmoon


----- Original Message -----
From: Q
To: letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 2/23/2005 11:38:16 AM
Subject: [LbNA] Re: Transferring designs to carving material



And don't forget the archaic method of tracing the image on tracing
paper with a pencil and then rubbing it onto the stamp material with
any kind of blunt object. This is what I use, and although it
requires slightly more work (the tracing), it is pretty consistent. I
also recently discovered when I had to recarve a detailed stamp of
mine that had gone missing, that if you save the traced artwork you
can use it again.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Amen, brother Eli!

Here's the procedure for using Xylene...

http://www.geocities.com/dividedeye/lbox2.html

Mark



--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "eli_slider" wrote:
>
> This one usually works for me on small images. I haven't had a lot of
> success with Iron transfers, but Xylene on toner images is the best I
> have found once you figure out the trick of it.
>
> Eli
>

This website was very helpful! I appreciate the level of detail in
how you use the xylene for carving. I immediately made a couple of
calls to art stores in the area and was able to locate the pen here in
Santa Rosa, CA. I'll be trying your method on my next stamp...which
is coming up soon. Thanks!

Moon Rabbit

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "ndnboxing" wrote:
>
> Amen, brother Eli!
>
> Here's the procedure for using Xylene...
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dividedeye/lbox2.html
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> --- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "eli_slider" wrote:
> >
> > This one usually works for me on small images. I haven't had a lot of
> > success with Iron transfers, but Xylene on toner images is the best I
> > have found once you figure out the trick of it.
> >
> > Eli
> >

Thank you for starting this thread... I've been trying to figure out
what I have been doing wrong in transfering "ink" images. I will try
with photocopys.

I still prefer to use pencil on the printed image and rubbing it
upside down on the stamps. I don't carve incredibly detailed and
the process allows me to make artistic decisions as I go. Or is that
artistic license. I often have to clean it up as I carve, often
referring back to the original image, but I like that.

Scarab of the Doubtful Guests

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "Connie"
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I often do my stamp design on my computer . . . but then have
> trouble transferring it to the carving material (master carve or
the
> pink stuff). . . any suggestions?
> Rosie River Cat

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, "thedoubtfulguests"
wrote:
>
> I still prefer to use pencil on the printed image and rubbing it
> upside down on the stamps.

IMHO I find that this really botches up the lettering unless you're
only doing something that requires block capitals. But....that's just
me and my personal style of stamp images also.

I find for a transfer, that a heated iron works - but if you're also
careful...you can use Citra Solve which is a very acidic concentrated
household cleanser that works well. It also works very nicely on
fabric - linen and other types if you're transferring copied/laser images.

good luck!
Phyto :)

I transfer my ink (ballpoint) images with acetone/nail polish remover & it works quite well as long as I don't soak it too much....

gallant_rogue wrote:


Thank you for starting this thread... I've been trying to figure out
what I have been doing wrong in transfering "ink" images. I will try
with photocopys.







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, Suzanne Coe
wrote:
> I transfer my ink (ballpoint) images with acetone/nail polish
remover & it works quite well as long as I don't soak it too much....
>
> gallant_rogue

Hi GR.
Try scrubbing your carving medium with the acetone on a paper towel,
then place the image face down and rub you will find it transfers
great. This way you will never get it too wet.The scrubbing changes
the carving medium just slightly, and makes it receptive for the
image.
Don

Fabulous! Thanks! Must go carve something now....

Sheba

gwendontoo wrote:

--- In letterbox-usa@yahoogroups.com, Suzanne Coe
wrote:
> I transfer my ink (ballpoint) images with acetone/nail polish
remover & it works quite well as long as I don't soak it too much....
>
> gallant_rogue

Hi GR.
Try scrubbing your carving medium with the acetone on a paper towel,
then place the image face down and rub you will find it transfers
great. This way you will never get it too wet.The scrubbing changes
the carving medium just slightly, and makes it receptive for the
image.
Don




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